June 15, 2005
Chinese Food Therapy

This article was published by Topics Magazine a publication of the American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei in February 2005

Eating Your Way to Good Health

Go to any traditional street market in Taipei and you will find any number of stalls selling Chinese medicinal dishes. Ginger stewed chicken, pork rib soups, duck and oyster stew, and black chicken and herb soup are some of the most common such dishes, eaten for their ability to prevent a multitude of common or more serious ailments. This practice is thoroughly entrenched in Taiwanese culture.

In downtown Taipei, for example, not far from Warner Village in the glitzy Xinyi District, celebrity Chinese chef Kuo Yueh-ying serves up bowl after bowl of her "healthy cuisine" at her popular restaurant. The author of many cookbooks and host of a TV cooking show, in addition to being a restaurateur, she has built a reputation on making healthy food delicious (some of the older-style dishes were known to be a bit challenging for many palates). It is clear that eating for health is a far more complex process than we have in Western society, and that we have a lot to learn from the well-documented practice of alimentotherapy.

Chinese medicinal cuisine takes the fundamental elements of nutrition as we understand it in the West and then adds healing properties in the form of herbs and roots to elevate the status of the dish from food to medicine. It actually makes a lot of sense in contemporary developed society where we suffer malnutrition not from undernourishment but from over-indulgence to eat food that not only provides the basic food groups but also preventative care.

A few years ago, I was asked along with a photographer with whom I worked to do the food styling for a cookbook here. This book was for modern Taiwanese women who wish to follow the custom of zuo yuetzi, which literally translates as "doing a month" This is a practice, also common in other cultures, which aims to restore the health of women after childbirth by giving complete bed rest and a special diet for one month.

Traditionally these women were cooked for and cared for by their mother or mother-in-law, but nowadays this is not always possible. Enterprises such as the Wellcare Health Co., which sponsored the cookbook, are attempting to fill the niche. You can either stay at one of their clinics, where they will care for you and the baby, or you can opt to have the food delivered to your home every day for a month, at a cost of about NT$70,000. The cookbook was meant for those who wish to follow the practice with home cooking.

With the help of the company director, we cooked, styled, and photographed 64 dishes in three days. Some came from Wellcare¡'s factory near the Qili An MRT Station in Shipai, and some we made from scratch. Featured in many of the dishes were copious amounts of ginger, rice wine, and sesame oil, all of which are considered to be warm foods, along with strange (to me) roots, berries, twigs, and bark.

It is no wonder that Taiwanese mothers recover so well after having a baby. Doing the month includes complete bed rest, round-the-clock help with the baby, and a carefully planned restorative diet. It must work, because new Taiwanese mothers seem to look fabulous, get their pre-baby figure back in record time, and can face the arduous task of parenting from a nurtured beginning. It was clear to me that there had to be something pretty special about Chinese medicinal cuisine, so I did some background reading.

Food therapy for survival

Historians believe that Chinese Food Therapy (CFT) originated around 2000 B.C., but the earliest records that have been found date from 500 B.C. The Yellow Emperor's Classic of Internal Medicine, also known as the Neijing, was written around 300 B.C. and became the CFT bible. It classified foods according to four food groups and five elements (wood, fire, earth, metal, and water), as well as by their basic natures and characteristics. Although modern approaches continue to evolve, the fundamentals have remained much the same.

It was not until the Han Dynasty (16 B.C.) that food therapy was really taken seriously. The emperor placed so much weight on its benefits that he employed a food specialist for the imperial court. By the start of the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.), food therapy had become widely practiced, and it was at this time that many classic books began to emerge. With responsibility for health in Chinese society left to the individuals, the majority of people ¡V many of them very poor ¡V feared the consequences of ill health.

Preventive healthcare became a necessity for survival. Of the four pillars of health lifestyle, diet, exercise, and mind ¡V diet became the focus because food was considered to be the primary cause of ill health, as well as the route to achieving longevity. That background helps explain the amazing lengths that families go to in the pursuit of eating healthy food. And I find it a delight to see young children here eating green vegetables and other important foods without a fuss.

Yin, yang, and qi

The overriding principle of Chinese Food Therapy is that maintaining a proper balance between yin (cold) and yang (warm) ¡V and combining an understanding of the nature of food, the body's constitution, and the role of qi (vital energy) is essential to well being. Balancing yin and yang is a constant job, as your body changes with your activity during the day. Take exercise and you become more yang; sit at a computer or watch TV and you become more yin. These two energy forces can easily adapt themselves to our changing needs in a relationship referred to as ¡§mutual constraint.¡¨ But when someone is ill, this constraint collapses and an imbalance of yin and yang occurs. Herbs, tonics and remedies, and medicinal foods are used to restore balance.

Chinese scholars have identified as many as 32 different types of qi. These all relate to a mixture of energies that we gain from the range of foods we consume. Different foods release qi in different ways as they are absorbed by the body. Heart qi, for example, is the action of the heart, not just a state of energy and its balance will depend on an individual's state of health and diet.

Matching the food you eat to the season is also seen as a fundamental part of maintaining qi. Ancient Taoists preferred to eat cool foods in winter, as they are more in harmony with your body and its chilly environment. Spicy foods were preferred in the summer (note the diet in many tropical Asian countries). In the West, seasonal extremes are not so apparent, as people enjoy central heating in the winter and air-conditioning in the summer months. The temperature extremes tend not to be as sharp as in Taiwan and mainland China. In addition to eating foods that match the seasons, people are also encouraged to match their own personal balance as assessed by a doctor.

Medicinal dishes and ingredients

The content of the "medicinal dishes" makes sense from a purely nutritional point of view. New mothers, for example, consume herbal chicken soups, kidneys and liver cooked with heaps of old ginger in rice wine and sesame oil, and many other slow-cooked herbal dishes to help restore blood, contract the uterus, nourish the kidneys, and bring the mother back to her pre-pregnancy health level. Many of the same foods are also recommended by Western nutritionists. Offal, for instance, is high in haem iron, which is taken up very easily by the body compared to the non-haem iron found in green vegetables. It is therefore recommended as a natural way to build up depleted stores of body iron. The emphasis on consumption of the main food groups ¡V cereals, fruit and vegetables, meat, and fish ¡V are similar to Western nutritional guidelines.

The addition of Chinese herbs during cooking makes this style of food preparation unique. But it is not just herbs that are believed to have healing powers. Some foods that are common in global cuisine are also considered to have additional powers over and above their basic nutritional contribution to the diet. Chestnuts, for example, are low in fat and high in protein and complex (slow-release) carbohydrates. Chinese food therapists also know that they are sweet and warm in nature (yang), beneficial to qi, and helpful for backache, weak legs, strengthening the kidneys, and restoring energy. Eggplant ¡V a commonly found vegetable prized in the West for its flavor and texture ¡V here are valued for its cold nature and ability to detoxify, improve circulation, relieve pain, heal swelling, and serve as a diuretic.

Masters of potions

A walk down DiHua street takes you into a world that to many Westerners may seem like something out of a Harry Potter book. I almost expect to bump into Snape, Master of Potions at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, shopping for ingredients at one of the shops. In this neighborhood, as you pass shop after shop brimming with herbs, roots, and strange-looking berries, you realize just how important Chinese medicine is to residents of this city. Other stores are Chinese apothecaries displaying dried seahorses, animal bones, and other weird and wonderful wares. This is the area in Taipei where locals come to buy their essential ingredients from trusted suppliers. Here you can seek expert advice from practitioners who will prepare a prescription for you after careful examination to determine your state of health and qi. Packs of herbs are carefully measured and wrapped for soups, tonics, and decoctions (the boiling of herbs to release their healing properties). Some of the benefits are subtle but immediate; others appear only after long-term consumption.

In Taiwan, there are three specialized herb alleys where fresh ingredients can be purchased. One is a narrow lane off XiYuan Road in the Wanhua District of Taipei, and the others are located in Taichung and Kaoshiung. In all three places, vendors sell herbal decoctions (called teas) that they brew outside their shops to their own secret recipes and then sell on the street by the glass or bottle. Even sweetened with sugar, the flavor of some of the herbs, such as aloe vera, can be quite bitter. A first-timer may wish to stick to the mixed herb detoctions on offer. In any case, it is intriguing to think that this thirst quencher will also sort out the disharmony in your internal organs.

Medicinal cuisine restaurants

Although many Taiwanese housewives like to prepare these dishes at home, there are also a number of restaurants serving herbal cuisine in Taipei. As many of the dishes are eaten according to the season, at certain times of year various dishes will not be available. Cold sesame noodles, which are eaten in the summer, disappear from sight as soon as the cold weather kicks in, but in their place hawkers emerge selling hot sweet potatoes dipped in honey. On JiHe Road near the Zhishan MRT, there is a row of street stalls famous for selling pork-rib and beef-tendon soups, all cooked with special herbs. They do a roaring trade, especially in the winter.

Even if you only do it once, try to sample some of this magical medicinal cuisine as part of the experience of living in Taipei. These are dishes prepared from ingredients that took centuries of testing and research to identify for their ability to heal. Certain dishes may be too unusual for some, but most of us couldn¡¦t fail to enjoy a ginger-stewed duck in rice wine on a cold Taipei winter evening.

Where to go!

Ms. Kuo¡¦s Healthy Cuisine: B-2, 12 SongGao Road. Tel: 8780-9966.
An interesting menu of Chinese medicinal food and wine. Located in the basement of the Shin-Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store.

UDD Herb: 19 AnHe Road, Section 1. Tel: 2721-8899.
Famous for using wild herbs and free-range black chicken.

Huang Gong Healthy Cuisine: 233 ChengGong Road, Section 2, Neihu. Tel: 2729-0596.

Golden Dynasty Mountain and Medicinal Foods Restaurant: 48 HuaXi Street (Snake Alley). Tel: 2302-1247. Open 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Jinjia Stew Sesame Chicken: 552-2 LinSen North Road. Tel: 2597-7811.
A reputation spanning over 30 years for a warming, nourishing stew, ideal for cold weather.

Mozaiyang Lamb Cuisine: 30 BeiNing Road. Tel: 2577-5415.
Close to the NanJing East Road MRT, this restaurant makes slow-cooked herbal dishes from Australian and New Zealand Lamb. The straws on the table are for patrons to suck the nutritious marrow from the bones.

Shunyi Healthy Cuisine: JinZhou Street, Lane 231, No. 23.
Located a short walk away from the MinQuan East Road MRT, this restaurant features Jiaqi chicken renowned for improving blood circulation and lung capacity.

Herb Alley: The best way to visit this area is by MRT. Go to Lungshan temple on the Blue line, which is just two stops from Taipei Main Station. Leave by Exit 1.

If you are interested in reading more about this subject, you will find many books in any of Taipei¡¦s better book shops, such as Eslite, Caves, or Page One. A good starter is Chinese Herbal Medicine by Penelope Ody, published by Dorling and Kindersley (ISBN 0-7513 3566-5).

There are also some bilingual cookbooks around that make fascinating reading. I recommend The Basic Medicinal Cuisine (Hundred Tastes Cooking) by Lin Meihui and Lee Chia Hsung and published by Taiwan Food and Beverage Publishing Co. (ISBN 957 -97803-1-5).

 

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June 14, 2005
San Bei - Artisan food, Taiwan style

A unique cooking style of Taiwan

You can’t help but love the food here . Its fresh, delicious and usually served with the utmost care from street vendors with red plastic stools to the very best five star hotels with interior design to match any other capitol city. Dishes from all over China proliferate and restaurants both Western and Asian to meet every mood and style are begging for your custom. As a food writer I go out on a limb to try and find the dish that is going epitomise a place I’ve stayed in and for Taiwan one of those for me will definitely be San Bei. Literally translated this means three cups which refers to the three cups of seasoning that form the glorious base to this aromatic dish. The protein element can be chicken, tofu, duck, fish, rabbit, frog or squid.

The three cups in use here are a combination in equal parts of soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil. These are seasoned with old ginger, whole cloves of garlic, black mushroom, chilli and fresh basil. All of these ingredients work together like an orchestra to create the final finale of the finished dish which is traditionally served red hot and sizzling to your table.

Intoxicating aroma

I had already been in Taipei for nearly two years when I went for dinner with friends to a spa resort in Shin Peitou which has al fresco dining (a rarity in a country where many diners favour indoor brightly lit air conditioned spaces). As there were some vegetarians in our party we ordered a couple of portions of san bei tofu. It arrived at our table in clay pots which we were warned by the waiter were extremely hot. The lids were removed and the most intoxicating aroma emerged from the serving dishes. They were still sizzling from the heat of the clay which, it emerged, are heated just prior to being filled from the original cooking vessel. The basil still bright green from its addition to the dish at the very last minute was wilting before our eyes. We eagerly helped ourselves and I tasted for the first time what to me is one of the most superb tofu dishes I have ever encountered. Now, at this particular venue the tofu used is enriched with egg which makes a difference as it imparts a creamy tone to the mouth-feel and texture of this sometimes uninspiring foodstuff and also an extremely attractive yellow color when cut. I have since sampled many versions of San Bei all of which have been slightly different and every bit as good.

A humble beginning

This dish originated at the start of the last century in the farming communities of Taiwan where it was set to cook and left over a low heat while the labourers were at work. It was also served as temple food around harvest time to celebrate the new crops and is considered because of the ingredients to be restorative to health . A very similar dish to San Bei chicken minus the chilli is given to women here observing “Zuo Yue Zi”, a one month period of rest and special diet after childbirth which helps the new mother replenish her body and strength for the task of motherhood. The liquids ( oil, soy sauce and rice wine) added, near the beginning of the cooking time will by the end have reduced to a golden caramelised coating, leaving an intense flavour in the finished dish. The ingredients stay the same in a classic San Bei dish apart from the protein element which is governed by personal preference, economics and availability. This dish is not one that appears in all Chinese restaurants in Taiwan especially if they specialise in the dishes of Mainland China. Taiwanese family restaurants and street cafes are likely to have a couple of San Bei dishes available but you may need to ask for a special order. The better the restaurant the more likely it is that they will use top quality ingredients and the resulting dish will be perfectly balanced, use a lower quality soy sauce an over salty flavour may result. Chefs who specialise in Taiwanese cuisine will make this on request depending on how busy the venue is on your visit. Some chefs wrongly I feel choose not to put this dish on the menu believing it to be old fashioned, and not of interest to visitors to Taiwan, this of course this is purely subjective and a misnomer that should be in my opinion overturned immediately!

To add weight to my research I asked Chef Tsang at the Ritz Landis superb Chinese restaurant Tsien Hsiang Lo to prepare a classic San Bei dish for me. He chose to make San Bei duck and while it cooked he told me about the ingredients.

There are some rules to follow he indicated when preparing certain dishes and this one is no exception. First of all selecting the right ingredients is of paramount importance as Chinese sesame oil for example comes in varying quality and in two different styles dark and light. Using light oil in this dish would not give the right colour and flavour and give a less authentic finish.

Three cups - the key ingredients

There are many sesame oils on the market but for this dish you need to use a black sesame oil which is made by crushing hulled and toasted white sesame seeds. Sesame oil is traditionally used in Chinese cooking for its flavour which is released from the seeds during toasting and as it has a low burning point its not that useful as a frying oil unless its mixed with other oils. Often drizzled on dishes just prior to serving it is in contrast used in San Bei dishes during the cooking of the dish as an important flavour component. Prized in traditional Chinese medicine for its warming qualities and part of the reason this dish is felt to be healthy for farm labourers.

Soy Sauce – a good quality naturally brewed soy sauce is a fundamental element of many Chinese dishes. Traditionally made by fermenting soy beans and roasted wheat for months before bottling for use. Quick fix methods are now employed, but the only way to replace the flavour gained by the lengthy fermentation process is to use hydrolized vegetable proteins which are high in natural monosodium glutamates (MSG) and artificial coloring. The Japanese who took the idea from the Chinese about a thousand years ago make two world renowned sauces Shoyu and Tamari which are both naturally brewed can be used in this dish. Tamari is produced without wheat and therefore good for those who are wheat intolerant. Avoiding inexpensive soy sauces and electing to choose a well know brand is advisable here . Light soy sauce is not suitable as it is too salty instead go for a dark soy sauce that will have a full flavour and contribute a red brown color to the finished dish. The rule in Chinese cookery is that light soy is used for dipping sauces and dark soy for cooking.

Rice wine – a crucial ingredient in Taiwanese cooking and perceived as an ingredient like Worcestershire sauce rather than a drink ( although some enjoy this as a beverage) especially in night market teppanyaki stalls where it’s used in copious amounts. Chef Tsang uses Mi jo tao wine as he says it imparts a most fragrant element to the dish than other grades of rice wine.
Basil- nine storey tower is the local name given to the heady aromatic variety of basil found in Taiwan. This is much stronger than the sweet basil found in Italy and prized in cooking throughout Europe. The basil here has a strong smell and flavour which people liken to clove or aniseed. It is an essential ingredient to San Bei cooking adding color and a distinctive flavour that is always going to shout Taipei at me ! Its curious name comes from the pale purple flower found which forms at the tip which can look a little like the swaying tower. I was surprised to learn that this flat leaf variety basil with its big flavour is fairly new and was only introduced to Taiwan in the 1960s. Easy to grow and an delicious addition to the cuisine, its popularity is evident and many local recipes like wok fried clams depend on it to pack a punch.

Dried Black mushrooms are readily available here and although fresh mushrooms are found easily many chefs prefer to use dried, and the flavour and texture of these, once re-hydrated, explains all. The process of drying intensifies the flavour compounds and texture so that when re-hydrated ( simply by pouring over boiling water and leaving for twenty minutes) they add a new rich dimension to any dish. Dried porcini mushrooms in Italian cuisine are prized in much the same way.

Old ginger – you can buy two types of fresh ginger root here; young or old. Young ginger is normally used finely grated with soy sauce and vinegar as a dipping sauce for dumplings but old ginger is used in cooked dishes. San Bei dishes are also unique as the ginger is sliced rather than grated for this dish, lengthways across the widest parts and left in whole pieces like potato chips.

Large red chillies, to add spiciness and color and a large handful of small peeled garlic cloves and the ingredients are assembled. No longer cooked for the whole day but taking far longer than the average restaurant dish be prepared for a short wait for your meal. Chef Tsang’s chose to prepare San Bei duck for me but says that chicken is the most popular version of this dish. Cooked for forty minutes the meat was tender and the sauce rich and dark from the duck gravy mixing with the three cups. It was a dish to remember cooked by one of the most talented and creative Chinese chefs I have encountered so far in Taipei. The dish had the perfect balance of these
classic Asian ingredients and it was one that I shall definitely try to replicate at home!

Order a San Bei dish and you cannot fail to become a fan of this classical Taiwanese cooking style which is long overdue for a huge revival. There are many foods I have yet to try in Taiwan and some I know I’ll only ever try a couple of times but for me San Bei will always have a green light.

Shirlee Posner is a freelance food writer who has lived in Taipei for three years. She is currently editor of Centered on Taipei a monthly lifestyle magazine for the international community published by the Community Services Center in Tienmu.

Thanks go to the PR team and Chef Tsang at the Ritz Landis for their co-operation and help with this article and photography.

The Tsien Hsiang Lo is located at B1 in the Ritz Landis Hotel, 41 Min Chuan East Road, Section 2, Taipei.

 

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May 4, 2005
Taipei Story House

Published in Centered on Taipei Magazine April 2004

From “Coffin House” to “Story House”

Shirlee Posner spent a morning at the Story House and learnt the fascinating tale behind Taipei’s only Tudor-style house from public relations officer Elaine Liu.

Built beside the Keelung River, to a blue-print of a typical Western house of the era bought from the East-India Company, ,Yuanshan Villa must have been a curious site in 1914 when it was completed under the shadow of a Shinto Shrine where the Grand Hotel now stands.
Credit for this elegant, newly restored house goes to an entrepreneurial tea merchant, who after traveling to Paris in 1900 to sell tea from his Taiwanese plantations, fell in love with Western architecture. On his return he recreated a symbol of it here in Taipei to use as a weekend house to entertain his business associates, members of the Taiwanese gentry, Japanese officials and foreign visitors.
When the house was originally built, it was given direct access to the Keelung River so that the owner, Chen Chao-chun, could travel by boat to his business premises in the busy trading area of Di-Hua Street. The land around the house covered a substantial area and in fact the plot where the Museum of Fine Arts stands today is in the original garden of the Yuanshan Villa.

The house itself has many beautiful features, some restored and some surviving as they were when it was built. The decorative floor tiles in the downstairs bathroom are original, as are some of the wall tiles which were copied as part of the restoration program to keep the detail exact. If you look closely enough you can just detect which tiles are new. Plaster details on the ceilings have all been replaced, but conform to the original pattern. Although many of the fittings were bought in from Europe to furnish the house when it was built, all the wood used was Taiwanese. One of my favorite features is the fireplace in the downstairs living room.

Architectural curiosity and benevolence

What is startlingly clear is that in the period this house was built (1913-1914), it must have been a fascinating site amongst all the original Chinese style temples and structures of that period. The house was not only a local tourist attraction but renowned for having some of the best views in Northern Taipei. Many of these are now sadly obscured by the road and MRT system that has been built nearby.

Yuanshan District was a rural area when the Villa was built, with rice paddies and tea slopes. Elaine told me an interesting story about how the name “Coffin House” came to be. The owner, altruistic by nature, was distressed to find out that one of the local residents was too poor to pay for the funeral of a loved one. He asked for the bereaved to bring to him the death certificate and he paid for the funeral. Once word got out, others in the same position also came to him and each time he would oblige.

Unfortunately Mr Chao-chun was only able to enjoy his house for ten years before his sudden death. The family were thrust into debt on his departure due to the collapse of his tea business and the house became the property of the Japanese Colonial Government. For a period of years it was used for different purposes: at one time as a detention center by the Japanese for dissidents and also as a home for a prominent politician- the speaker of the Legislative Yuan, Huang Kuo-shu.

From tatters to former glory
Finally, in 1990, by which time the building stood empty and in tatters, the Taipei City Government purchased the property in order to preserve its heritage, but lacked a restoration fund, until Chen Kuo-tsi, a Taipei lawyer, decided to help. She obtained legal stewardship of the building and implemented a plan to restore the house with City Hall approval. Backed by a US$1-million grant from the Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company Foundation, the house was made into a museum and cultural center. Chen said in a press release at the time "I was born in Hong Kong, but Taiwan, this place I've lived in for 25 years, feels more like home. So I feel an obligation to help boost the island's cultural life." Her enthusiasm for cultural activities is also demonstrated by serving for three years as the first chief executive of the National Culture and Arts Foundation. "Although a long succession of occupants have come and gone, Yuanshan Villa still remains appealing to Taipei residents because of its lovely style."
The new name for the building, “Story House”, comes from the translation from Mandarin to English of past things which fits the concept for the house to become a museum of piece of Taipei’s past. It’s a delightful place to be and in the courtyard, the Ritz Landis operate a café and restaurant with an indoor and outdoor seating area, where live music events take place at the weekend. Once you step inside the walled garden from Zhongshan North Road, the atmosphere transports you to a more sedate and gentle era. It’s a place that you feel you want to be.

Exhibitions and events

The Story House today is a thriving arts and cultural center dedicated to helping Taipei residents understand the history and lifestyle of the period the house was built. Photographs are displayed on the walls each one showing a unique glimpse of a past life: the first bus to run (in 1913), the original Yuanshan Zoo ( now the Children’s Recreation Center) and many more pictures, each telling a story of their own.

Many of the activities in and around the house are related to tea, and a few weeks ago I went with Ivy Chen to a green tea tasting session there. We tried six different teas, some from Taiwan and some from Mainland China, which were startlingly different in taste and price. Tea aficionados think nothing of paying up to NT$15 -20,000 for a kilo of some of the rarer teas picked at specific times of the year. Ivy told me that the average consumer will pay around NT$1,000 per kilo. Tours of the house in English should be arranged through the PR department (details below) as currently all activities take place in Chinese, so unless you have a command of the language or someone to interpret for you they’re not currently accessible.
As well as tea related events, there are also music performances and changing exhibitions. The current exhibition on the history of Taiwanese comics with drawing workshops for children is about to end but the next will be a study of Taiwanese leisure and life between 1900 and 1937. Exhibits will include old films, pictures, geisha society and how it was interlinked with the Intellectual movement who got together to recite poetry. At weekends and during special events, musicians will also play nanguan Music (described below), which was popular when the house was first built.

Local artists, handmade paper and gifts

Gift shops are usually full of tacky stuff that you simply don’t need, however the gift shop here is as unique as the house and is worth a visit in its own right. If you need a gift with a little history or uniqueness this is the place. It doesn’t have a huge selection, but it stocks the work of local artists, who have been commissioned specifically to create pieces that tie in with the mission of the Story House. Little stuffed donkeys are made by a group of women in Nantou County, who donate ten percent of the profit to the 1999 earthquake fund, while reams of beautiful, printed handmade paper go for NT$80 per sheet. Coffee mugs with designs from the Chinese zodiac also stood out, as did hand-embroidered silk calling card holders. Traditional Chinese fabric by the yard or ready-made into placemats also caught my eye, as did a strange model of a block of tofu on its traditional wooden board. Closer inspection revealed that this was made out of ceramic modeling clay and the detail was incredible, as was the price: NT$20,000. An interesting range of CDs of traditional music is also for sale.

The Story House is a wonderful place to visit and its location next to the Fine Arts Museum is a great bonus. Go with the intention of having a cup of Taiwanese tea in the garden on a sunny day for a glimpse into the decadent days of a bygone era.

Shirlee Posner is a member of the UK Guild of Food Writers. She has lived in Taipei for three years. To help raise funds for this free publication Shirlee will be giving a cookery demonstration with Justin Dingle at the ACC on April 24th. Contact the Center for details.

Information
Address: No. 181-1, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City
Tel: (02) 2587-5565; Website: www.storyhouse.com.tw
open hours: 10:30am -6:30pm (Tuesday -Sunday, closed on Mondays)

Whats on
Nanguan Music Performance: Spring Season
Nanguan, an ancient Chinese music, was often heard in this historic site during Chen Chao-chun’s period. Nanguan masters from the Nanguan Ensemble will play live in the garden of Taipei Story House.
Date: March 14 to May 23 (3/14, 3/28, 4/11, 4/25, 5/9, 5/23) Sundays 4.00 pm -6.00 pm
Life Movement Classroom
Taipei Story House and Cloud Gate Dance School will hold free dance lessons in the garden, guiding children to explore body and movement.
Dates: 3/21, 4/18, 5/16, 6/20 (Sundays)
Age 4-6: 4:00 - 4:40 pm
Age 7-8: 5:00 - 5:40 pm
To join, please fill in the registration form which is available in the ticket booth at Taipei Story House or through fax or a download from their website.
Taipei Story Corner - One Saturday afternoon every month, Taipei Story House will invite scholars or experts to share their knowledge of Taipei or local culture.
Date: Saturday 10th April 4.00 pm to 5.00 pm.
Venue: 1st Floor balcony of Taipei Story House
Speaker: Chiu Hsu-lin (consultant of Leisure Arts in Old Taiwan Exhibition)
Topic: The Legend of Taiwan Geisha
NOTE: basic Chinese skill is necessary for all the above events
For details of these events: please call Elaine Liu at 2587-5565 ext. 109 or email: elaine@storyhouse.com.tw

How to get there:
By Car : From Tienmu, take Zhongshan N. Rd. to Section 3 and look out for the Fine Arts Museum on the left-hand side. There is some public parking on Jiu Quan Street.
Bus: Take one of the following bus lines, 40, 42, 203, 208, 216, 218, 220, 224, 247, 260, 277, 279, 287, 308, 310, 612 and get off at the Yuanshan bus stop.
MRT: Go to Yuanshan Station on the Xindian to Dansui Line, then walk for five minutes.

 

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May 1, 2005
Chinese preserved eggs

Published in American Chamber of Commerce Wine and Dine Magazine - Taipei Feb 2005

Century and Salted Duck Eggs

A quirky new ingredient for food fashionistas ?

The Chinese art of preserving eggs by alkaline fermentation is one of the most unique styles of food preservation documented . Eggs, used globally in both western and Asian food are of particular importance both nutritionally and historically but are admired by culinary experts in east and west for different reasons. To discover that eggs, so eagerly employed in the west for their ability to foam, emulsify and bind are praised in Asia for their symbolic similarity to the moon and as a symbol for luck and fertility makes the humble egg gain street credibility. The food culture of east and west are so profoundly different but this adds a fascinating dimension to living and eating in the region. So strange to newcomers in Asia are the dark brown translucent ‘whites’ of Thousand year eggs with their greenish black globular yolks that they are often rejected without sampling. This seems mainly to do with the color as some eggs in poor light especially look almost black. This is not normally an indication that the food will be safe to eat. Eggs that are old also have a well earned reputation for smelling and tasting bad if they are even slightly off. The name suggest an age a lot older than the actual fermentation process of around one hundred days.

Preserved eggs for sale in a Balinese food market

Although alternative methods of preserving eggs can be found in other cuisines like drying and freezing these are relatively recent. Shelled boiled hens eggs, pickled in vinegar and sold as a beer snack in the British Isles are fading in popularity as the market is flooded with new snack products. Although the preparation of eggs worldwide has many variations and themes it is the Chinese who have come up with the most unique product of all. It must be assumed that years of starvation, hard winters and poverty drove people to push boundaries with food preservation and as eggs were plentiful in season and their nutritional contribution to the diet understood they were an ideal food to preserve. The Chinese have a unrivalled history of eating so many different animals and parts of ( chicken feet, ducks tongues, fish heads, roots even earth have been included in the diet in times of food shortage. Their ingenuity with eggs is perhaps a throw back to that era.

Whilst in the west many of the preserved foods made traditionally before refrigerators and freezers were developed have been modified to suit a modern diet ( less sugar and salt ) it seems that little has changed in the preservation of eggs.

Even though many homes here are equipped with fridges and freezers the Chinese are still avid consumers of preserved eggs. In many cultures where traditionally food was preserved for basic human survival especially in winter months the flavors of those foods become so entrenched in the diet that they continue to be eaten even though they are available fresh year round. Their taste and texture adding welcome diversity to the diet.

There are two distinct types of preserved eggs found in stores in Taiwan, salted duck eggs which can be purchased either raw or cooked and thousand year or century eggs. Other styles of serving whole eggs such as red-braising or simmering in tea are also common but do not preserve the eggs in any way.

Xian dan - Salted eggs

Preserving duck eggs in a brine solution was discovered to be a safe method for increasing their useable life and made them easier to transport. Duck eggs are naturally higher in pathogenic (microorganisms which cause food poisoning) bacteria and spoil quickly even when freshly laid. Hens eggs which have gained in popularity because of their lower fat content are also used nowadays but this is a recent trend. To prepare Xian dan eggs are soaked in brine for more than a month, some are soaked for a shorter time and then encased in salted mud and straw.

By soaking the eggs in brine the whites became firmer and the yolk denser as water is drawn out of the eggs by osmosis. Because of the natural bacteria in eggs they must still boiled for ten minutes before eating or used raw in dishes that will then be cooked. After this many recipes will just take the cooked crumbled yolk as form of seasoning as in pork dumplings and the white will be discarded. Preserved duck eggs are still very popular still in Taiwan and used extensively for cake fillings for mid-autumn moon festival. There are many different fillings but those containing duck egg yolks are favored. These are often combined with a sweet red bean paste that will counter the saltiness in the egg but also adds a smooth creaminess to the crumbly yolk. In recent years moon cake vendors compete for new and innovative fillings and ideas to gain the most business but a cake without the duck egg yolk, considered by many to be a scandal. The popularity of these eggs perhaps dwindling with younger more cosmopolitan Taiwanese but are still very much part of the diet here. In any traditional market wherever fresh eggs are sold, so will preserved, and the same is true of more contemporary supermarkets. New gourmet food stores like Jason’s also stock preserved eggs such is the demand for them in the local diet. When trying these for the first time a newcomer will find salted eggs to have an unusual flavor that marries well with other ingredients. The white although perfectly safe to eat is often discarded in preference for the yolk. The whites take on a slightly rubbery texture during the preserving process is considered to be quite tasteless and is rarely used. Once the eggs have been salted they will keep for several months. Salted eggs are sold raw or cooked by vendors.

Pi Dan - Thousand year eggs

These eggs belong to a unusual group of alkaline fermented foods that are mostly found in Southeast Asian and African countries. Almost black in color and with a gooey greenish yolk these eggs are often avoided by westerners who dislike the color, smell and texture they develop during fermentation. The color, translucency and texture of the yolk which especially when raw looks most unappetizing is improved when the eggs are boiled. They do in fact have an attractive mild creamy flavor hence their popularity.

Bad press
If you mention Thousand year eggs, Century eggs or Pi dan the three names by which the same product is known as you may get a common response that these eggs are cured in mixture of horse urine and mud. Research reveals this is simply not the case. It may well be that disreputable traders may have tried this out. The contamination of foods by producers trying to make a quick buck is common worldwide. The first UK law to protect consumers from food adulteration was passed way back in the 12th Century. Here to assure skeptics is a recipe for these eggs using easily obtainable ingredients.

Here is a simple recipe for making these eggs

Ingredients

2 cups very strong black tea
1/3 cup Salt
2 cups pine wood ashes
2 cups charcoal ashes from the fireplace
1 cup Lime* (available in garden stores)
12 Fresh duck eggs

Method
Combine all the ingredients together apart from the eggs. Thickly coat each egg completely with this clay-like mixture. Line a large crock (ceramic pot) with garden soil and carefully lay coated eggs on top. Cover with more soil and place crock in a cool dark place. Allow to cure for 100 days. To remove coating, scrape eggs and rinse under running water to clean thoroughly. Crack lightly and remove shells. The white of the egg will appear a grayish, translucent color and have a gelatinous texture. The yolk, when sliced, will be a grayish-green color. To serve, cut into wedges and serve with tofu and soy sauce.
Adapted from the "The Regional Cooking of China" by Margaret Gin and Alfred E. Castle, 101 Productions, San Francisco, 1975.
Pi dan are eaten locally here as a side dish or an accompaniment to a meal. Often served with tofu and soy sauce or simply on their own.
In a modern context

Convinced that these eggs must be used by top chefs here, I asked Johnny Liaou (chef de Cuisine) at the Grand Hyatt’s Shanghai Court Restaurant to cook for me. He prepared two dishes which are on their current menu. The first we sampled was a stunning green crab bought into Taipei from their purchasing department from the waters surrounding the Penghu Islands. These are not prolific and therefore not found in the local markets in Taipei. Described on the menu as ‘wok fried green crab with salty duck egg yolk, chili and fragrant salt’ we asked the chef to run through the preparation method. First the crab was coated in cornstarch and deep fried for barely a minute in soy bean oil in which time it turns a glorious deep red. The crab is then removed from the oil, drained and cut into four sections. In another wok the chef adds very finely chopped ginger, garlic, spring onion and stir fries until soft. The crab goes back in the pan with a beaten raw salted egg yolk which coats all the surfaces now exposed. Then served to customers immediately with a garnish of deep fried onion slivers, coriander spring onion and chili. This crab is so fresh and sweet that it complements the saltiness of the duck egg yolk. Together they develop a creamy mouth feel which is heavenly. As the meat is sucked from claws and shoulder joints the taste is sensational, with food like this I understand why on a Tuesday at 2pm in the afternoon the restaurant is still packed . The chef admits that this is not a strictly traditional dish but a contemporary version of a Shanghai dish using the best ingredients that Taiwan has to offer.

Attention to detail

The second dish we are offered is a simpler affair made with fava beans and one of the most popular vegetables dishes currently on the current menu. Fava beans have a very short season so the Hyatt import as much as they can store when its available from Mainland China, and then freeze for use in the restaurant. Such is the attention to detail that the chef would not even consider substituting a different bean in this dish. The beans are sautéed with spring onion, finely chopped mustard greens and raw salted duck egg yolk. The egg yolk again here forms the seasoning element but when the dish is ready a couple of tablespoons of diced cooked egg yolk is added. The combination of complimentary flavors here again are superb and this dish definitely has the ‘wow factor’.

An unusual method

The third dish we were presented with did not contain preserved eggs but the chef wanted us to try it anyway. Disappointment, that a salted duck or Century egg was not included soon disappeared as our third dish arrived. When the ‘wok fried cod fillet with onions, Yunan ham and egg white sauce’ was placed on the table I could see that this was different. Here a most unusual presentation method of including beaten egg whites had been used. This dish is a classic example of the type of fusion dishes that innovative Taiwanese chefs are currently developing. This dish is traditionally made with a local fish yellow croaker which has very soft flesh and little flavor hence its popularity in sweet and sour dishes. Yellow croaker is inexpensive and hard to sell in a restaurant of this high standard. So the chef uses finest imported cod which has a firmer fuller flavored flesh. First the cod is placed in a classic Chinese marinade of ginger, spring onion and garlic. Drained and coated in corn starch the fish is stir fried with some sliced white onion and then removed from the wok. Immediately half a cup of delicate chicken stock is added to the pan and then the cod mixture is returned along with some stiffly beaten egg whites. This is stir fried over a high heat for a short time, garnished with crumbled Yunan ham and gingko nuts. The dish is so light as the egg white barely sets and in the mouth literally melts with the tender fish flesh.

A rightful place in world gastronomy

Whether or not you are fortunate enough to have already discovered the delights of Chinese preserved eggs I thoroughly recommend sampling the dishes reviewed at the Shanghai Court Restaurant on the 4th floor at the Grand Hyatt Taipei. They are some of the finest examples of modern Chinese cooking to be found.

For me experimentation with these eggs will continue. Already ‘tuna nicoise with seared sashimi tuna with thousand year eggs and sesame dressing’ is now firmly in my repertoire and in future I shall also be using salted duck egg yolks to season and thicken sauces.

Four years ago I couldn’t have written this article but having immersed myself into the delights of Taiwanese and Mainland Chinese ingredients and cuisine I find most of my initial reserve has faded. Instead living here has opened many doors and challenged many organoleptic boundaries. The fusion movement although in its infancy here but with more classic chefs like Liao setting the standards for his protégée with classic ingredients like preserved eggs the possibilities are endless. The fusion of styles here is not simply the classic European mixed with the flavors of Asia it also takes essential elements of Mainland Chinese with Taiwanese and a dose of Japanese - the result ? like nothing you will have ever tried before.

Shanghai Court Restaurant : 4th floor, Grand Hyatt Hotel 2 Song Shou Road, Taipei Tel: (02) 2720 1200
www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com

Shirlee Posner is a freelance food writer and member of the UK Guild of Food Writers. She has been eating and living in Taipei and other parts of Asia for the past four years. If you would like to contact the author you may do so via her website www.shirleeposner.com.

 

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December 22, 2003
Surprising Shihlin

Published in Centered on Taipei April 2002

Taipei's garden suburb

Enjoying a dose of retail or garden therapy in Taipei doesn't necessarily mean a trek downtown or up the mountain as those in the know in Shihlin have found out. All that's necessary is to head for the Tunnel market and surrounding streets for a shopping fix or one of the parks to relax. Let's kick off with shopping: Hwa Rong Market or tunnel market, a name used by expats because of the way the roofs of buildings on opposite sides of this street market meet in the middle. On the north side of Chung Chen Road, west of the MRT station, it is exceptional as it not only has the shoes, clothes, bags, and house-wares other markets offer but also fresh meat, fish, vegetables and dried foods. Children's clothes, designer jackets, fake-label handbags, flowers, tea, toys - the choice is vast. This market positively hums and one of its great pulls is that the traders change every day.

The nomadic army of market-hopping hawkers changes venue as often as the crowd. So in the center between the permanent stalls you find the dumpling ladies, the crab man, the lime juice squeezer and more who all make an appearance on a daily or weekly basis for a set time then wheel away to their next destination. It would take months of research to work out when the different traders are there, but each time you go, there will be some other stallholder hawking some unusual product or food; on my most recent visit it was deep fried squid in tempura style batter. This creates a magnetic lure since there is always something new and whenever I leave this market, I plan my return trip.

Hip and stylish

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Food Safety

This article was published in the June edition of Centered on Taipei 2002. It was inspired by my experience as a food hygiene trainer in the UK for the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health. The hotter the country you live in the more diligent you have to be.

What are you eating and how safe is it?

An introduction to food safety

They are in your ears, eyes and nose, on your fingers, hair and toes. In fact we have more bacterial cells in and on our bodies than human cells. Some of these are pathogenic (poisonous to humans) and if they contaminate the food we eat they can be fatal or cause an extremely nasty bout of food poisoning. For example fifty per cent of us are hosts to staphylococcus aureus in our nasal passages and whilst they can cause sinus infections they are relatively harmless, but if they get into food (usually by sneezing or from fingers) they can make us really ill. Time and temperature are the key factors that contribute to otherwise harmless bacteria creating havoc in our digestive systems. In view of the impending Taipei summer when temperatures can soar to nearly 40?degrees and make growing bacteria a unwanted home hobby, here is, in summary, a guide to help you prepare food safely at home.

Read on for a potted lesson on food hygiene.

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December 19, 2003
Hsimenting - History versus Retro Chic

Pubished in Centered on Taipei April 2003

Shirlee Posner went exploring in this dynamic section of Taipei and found space suits , a renovated theater, tutus, 1950's coffee shops, tattoo parlors, body piercing, Spanish saffron and quirky Japanese fashions.....

My first visit to this area was to procure a wig for an impending social do that demanded fancy dress. When I lived in the UK this use to plunge me into the depths of despair but here it's a joy, there are sew amahs, the fabric market and the wonderful shops in Hsimenting that are bursting to the seams to fulfil virtually all dressing up fantasies. For many items you can chose to hire or buy. Having chosen your theme, the shops to complete your outfit with wacky jewelry, hats, bags, scarves or shoes are just a couple of streets away. The best are tucked away in the alleys and lanes around a main pedestrian area.

This area although known for its cult fashion stores and student shopping crowd is also one of the oldest market areas in Taipei which had undergone a decline in popularity for traditional shopping as its original market fell into a state of disrepair and was demolished. The renovation of a red brick built Japanese market (saved because it was a listed building) which re-opened as a cafe exhibition center and theater has now given the area a new lease of life.

The Red House Theater and Hsimen market

The establishment of this area as an important commercial center begins with the building by the Japanese in 1896 of a market to service the increasing population of Taipei. This was wooden and it was decided to replace the original one storey market something a little different. Designed by a Japanese architect Kondojuro the new two storey building it was first known as the Red Tower as it was built from red bricks or Market Octagonal Hall a reference to its shape. It was designated as a market to sell flowers, medicines, coal, books and Japanese foods and other essential items. . An additional one storey cross shaped extension soon followed. The opening of this market began a thriving, prosperous and positively bustling era for local traders right up until the 1970s when other newly built shopping centers with modern department stores began to draw trade away.

The Hsimenting area was also home to first theater built in Taipei in 1897 also by the Japanese. The original site is now one of many cinemas making this a prime destination for movie-goers. To the rear of the Red House a crucifix shaped market in brick (built in 1896) also thrived selling dried foods, daily items and fresh groceries complimenting what was sold in the main section. Over the years Hsimen market gained in popularity and many shops sprung up around it, this happened again in the 1960's with another era of brisk development spilling the market over into the adjacent streets.

In 1951 the second floor of the building started to be used as a venue for Chinese opera. By 1956 it had become such a popular venue that the building was renamed the Red Theater It continued to be used for opera which was sometimes sung in Taiwanese as well until 1963 when it became a movie theater. Locals came in droves even though it was noisy from the busy downstairs market as the admission price was way below the other cinemas in the district. The films shown were not new releases but the theater gained a reputation for showing some art houses film as well as classics and it soon had a cult following until it closed in 1996. In 1997 the building had been given third class historic status and it was decided that it should become a movie museum (the site finally chosen for this was the former US ambassadors residence). In July 2000 a huge fire broke out which destroyed many of the surrounding shops and almost destroyed the Red Theater. In May 2001 what was left of Hsimen market was demolished leaving the site clear around the Red Theater for renovation of the two original Japanese buildings the Red house itself and the crucifix shaped one floor building to the rear.

The Red House Theater re-opened in 2002 as a cafe theater and performance venue and is run by the director of the Paper Windmill Theater group. It is also available to hire for private functions and to date it has been used for fashion shows, business and marketing seminars and more. The majority of the performances are in Chinese but the exhibitions and some of the performances are accessible to non-Mandarin speakers. The cafe and exhibition space downstairs is worth a visit just to see the building.

Opposite the market (which is currently being re-built) are some interesting shops that have survived the downtown of the local economy. Two in particular deserve attention and are located in Xining South Road. The first is Little Garden a shoe shop, making original Shanghai style embroidered shoes and this is the only shop in Taipei that still does. Revered by Japanese tourists who list the shop in their tour guides it's a must see in Taipei. The shoes themselves were used as slippers, traditionally when playing mahjong as they are light and comfortable as well as being extremely attractive. The current owner of this shop is third generation Chinese from Shanghai where the family business started in 1936. In 1949 the family moved to Taipei during the KMT retreat. The shoes used to be hand embroidered, but these are dying skills and whilst some shoes are hand sown many are made instead with pre-embroidered brocade. The display as you enter the shop is dazzling and it would be difficult to choose just one pair from the display and starting at just NT$500 a pair these shoes scream buy me, own me, wear me.
Just a couple of doors away from the rainbow world of Shanghai shoes is a traditional Chinese apothecary. As I approached this shop I couldn't help noticing the smell of a familiar spice in the air. I searched the window display for affirmation, and found tins of Spanish saffron. The owner explained that Saffron is known locally as Rat flour and is thought to be good for improving blood circulation and is taken orally. I hastily purchased a tin in the knowledge that this would end up in a glistening fish stew or paella.

Dressing up and getting down

Walking up Han Chung Street you will come across the costume hire and ballet shops. Tap shoes, leather ballet pumps, adorable tutus for budding ballerinas all compete for business in this location. You'll also find great fitness outfits in sizes up to extra large (in the Asian sense) so most people will find something that's comfortable. Ballroom dancers, cheerleaders and aerobics fans are all catered for here. For fancy dress parties there are half a dozen shops that sell or hire an amazing range of outfits, from a Chinese warrior complete with long plaits to the latest Disney Character the options are endless. Go with friends and try lots of different outfits even if you don't have a fancy dress party to go to, its good therapy!

Formosan tea, coffee and cookies

As you continue to wander around the adjacent streets where you'll find Cheng Tu Road and a shop selling loose Formosan teas (grown exclusively on their own plantations in Taiwan). This is a charming shop thathas not had a refit since it opened. On the counter are two old fashioned weighing scales which are still used, the tea is stored in large green enamel canisters. The prices are competitive with a product list available in English. The green tea I bought here is full of flavor and I am becoming addicted to the taste and the enjoyment of seeing it unfold from the tightest tangle to perfect green leaves as it brews.

Next door two coffee shops also from the same era and both untouched for decades. When I first stood in front of these shops the smell of the coffee and the displays of related equipment transported me to the old part of Lisbon or a street in Madrid for a second. Huge jars of cookies line the counter and at one shop iced coffee being prepared for the afternoon. This was a fascinating set up of two large glass containers with a tube of fresh ground coffee in the center. Ice was packed into the top and cold water poured through. The coffee in the center so tightly packed that the water will simply drip through very slowly taking with it the volatile flavor compounds from the coffee to fill the receptacle beneath it. Cookies of all shapes and sizes were packed in the glass cabinets below, made from mung beans, almonds, red beans and taro they looked stunning lined up with regimental accuracy.

These are just a few of the remaining original shops as this area became so dilapidated that in the early 1990s the ruling party started a clean up project to bring some order to what had become a shanty town of decaying buildings and street markets. Other interesting relics spotted on my tour included a shop (52 Neijiang Street) that sold and sharpens knives and scissors, until now I had no idea of the extent to different styles available for removing hair from various parts of the body for animals and humans ! Also on the same street at number 18 was four floors of catering equipment, huge steamers, saucepans, chopping boards and more in enormous piles. Close by another shop selling all the disposable items you'll ever need.

Today modern paved areas with a central circle (which is used for street performances) and purpose built shops have replaced the chaos. This is one of a few pedestrian areas in Taipei, which has improved the street scene beyond recognition and has transformed the area into a dynamic ghetto for teenagers and students. Music performances on the street in the dedicated circle especially at the weekends are the norm and on my last visit a rap group V2 (ex TAS students) who host a cable music station were recording material for their show. Funky clothes shops, nail artists, body piercers, tattoo parlors and one off cafes and restaurants are all mixed together in a cocktail of cool. Stay on the main drag and you just find the usual high street outlets that can afford the rent but take any of the network of lanes and alleys and the true delights of this area will unfold. Loud music, outrageous clothes, Japanese twee-ness and energy all combine to give this area its contageous appeal and the price tags make shopping here a reality for student budgets.

Although a lot of the items for sale here are definitely geared towards the teenage market a few gems stand out. Two Brushes on Cheng Tu Road which deserves a thorough rummage as it has some great linen and lycra cotton shirts some of which were very stylish plus some wacky evening trousers, some in Chinese brocade.

A visit to the Red House and its exhibition center is an interesting outing in its own right if you are into fashion and groovy clothes. The crucifix market and a project to make a garden square in front of the theater is still currently in progress and will be completed soon. A huge bonus of a visit to Hsimenting is the ease of finding it. Unlike some places in Taipei which have had me compass and map in hand and mobile phone stuck to my ear there is no such problem as the MRT throws you out of the train at the epicenter.

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December 1, 2003
Old Shen Keng

This article was written for the 'Let's Go' series in Centered on Taipei

Visit Taipei's famous stinky tofu street for the smelliest outing in town.

Today I will eat stinky tofu for the first time and I decided that the only place to do this is at Taipei's most famous stinky tofu restaurant in Old Shen Keng Street. Now bearing in mind this is a few days after the China Post revealed the terrible truth that stinky tofu made the traditional way (luckily only ten percent of that consumed) includes a hefty infestation of maggots (fly larvae).These are apparently a key ingredient in this historic method for adding a bit of pizazz to an otherwise tasteless food. Modern methods luckily have reduced the fermentation time down from six months to a matter of hours and without the addition of wildlife.

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November 10, 2003
Killer smoothies and titillating nibbles

Published in Centered on Taipei magazine during the SARS Crisis

Brighter breakfasts, luscious lunches and seriously sensuous suppers can boost your immune system and brighten your outlook.

Immune boosting drinks and libido enhancing snacks can turn negative to positive. If going out in crowded public places is not currently recommended, then fill up with exotic fruits and aphrodisiac foods, invest in a blender, re-stock the bar and enjoy voluntary quarantine with attitude!

Boosting the immune system is top priority for the next few weeks. Entertaining at home with friends is a great way of heading off doom and gloom and staying safe. Offer vitamin packed smoothies laced with something alcoholic (if you like) and serve with some aphrodisiac snacks: fresh oysters, toasted pine nuts and almonds and more. With a fun theme there's no need for icebreakers.

For starters, here is a brief guide to the nutrients essential for keeping your body in fighting form and the foods that provide them, plus some creative ways of incorporating them into feisty drinks and snacks.

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ShiDong Market: fresh and luscious, live shows daily

Bakers knead and pull; noodle sellers roll and cut and butchers chop and mince; tiger prawns wriggle and jump, crabs spur with eels, clams squirt. Everywhere there is hustle and bustle and spectacles of a culinary nature to gaze upon. Peas are podded, corn husked, garlic peeled and nuts cracked. ShiDong is my Taipei pick-me-up as it's impossible to leave here without feeling inspired and uplifted; so much of the food is prepared on site by skilled artisans who by hand, produce a stunning array of fresh delights. My first visit to this market was on my third day in Taipei when I joined a Center tour, that was nearly two years ago and it was love at first sight.

Taipei's wet markets provide invaluable insight into the city's eating habits as well as its culture and lifestyle, and each market is a microcosm of the distinctive local community, expressing its characteristics that emphatically assail all the senses: smell, sight, touch, sound and taste.

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