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Shirlee Posner |
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December 20, 2011
Cooking for Christmas Incredible edibles I know I have failed miserably to get this out on time for Christmas but for those of you who are at home with the kids or with a bit of cooking time on your hands before New Years Eve it might still come in use. There is always next Christmas and if last year was anything to go by it will be here in no time at all.
With the cost of putting on a fabulous christmas for our families increasing each year the stress of buying Christmas gifts for family and friends sometimes feels like it will break the bank. Why not use your culinary skills to whip up some lovely gifts from your kitchen? Every year I make a few things to give as gifts and they are always really appreciated especially by friends who do not spend as much time in their kitchens as me. Tradition now has it that I make Christmas granola with dried cranberries and mixed spice, Nigella Lawsons Chilli jelly and fresh cream and booze filled chocolate truffles. This year I am also making chocolate discs embedded with crystallised ginger and other dried fruit plus some seasonal sprinkles. There is of course a self indulgent aspect to this as I love the creativity that strolls along with it and its preferable to spending a morning shopping any day. Packaging materials When I had my own bakery years ago packaging turned out to be one of the biggest costs. I started to gather clean discarded boxes and recycle them during that time in the early 1980's. Now recycling is part of our culture and gift wrapping does not need to cost too much as boxes can be gathered from the mustard and relish aisle of any supermarket and compartmentalised trays from the cream section for muffins and cupcakes. I buy all my gift wrap and tags in the post xmas sales so always have plenty in stock.
Chocolate size trays from Marmite, pesto or any other small jar trays to give gifts a professional look plus its recycling too so you can wear your one planet hat at the same time. I do however buy small self seal bags as you do need to keep food products safe to eat. I bought my last lot in Bali but found a shop here on ebay that sell these bags very reasonably. I have these in a range of sizes and small ones in particular work well for table gifts and individual biscuits and cakes too.
Wrapping paper, ribbons, stickers and pegs also add a festive look and a store called Tiger is really good for labels, santa pegs and clear wrap. Stickers are also really useful and I have the occasional search on the internet for sticker books. I found Cath Kidston stickers books cheaper on Amazon that they are in the shop and some others which are also very attractive. I use value range chocolate as it has nearly the same cocoa solids (52%) as standard ranges and if I am going to buy good chocolate at a premium price I would eat it as it is. The skill here is to make things that people will really like and eat and to present it in a way that adds a bit of wow factor.
Why not get the Kids involved?
Simplest of all to make are these chocolate discs. Melt white and dark chocolate and spoon on to non stick paper to form discs around 3-4cm in diameter. Drop on a selection of dried fruits and nuts of your choice. Here I have used almonds, cranberries and crystallised ginger. I also added some sprinkles to add colour and texture.
To merge white and dark chocolate together spoon a little on the a disc and swirl with a cocktail stick. Add your toppings and allow to set. Remember when you melt chocolate if you want it to retain its lovely glossy finish dont let it get too hot as when it sets it will have dull and slightly mottled appearance. You can also play around with sprinkles and glitter.
To package line the boxes with aluminium foil or christmas gift wrap. Line the trays with tissue paper to give an extra festive flourish and cover in clear film. Use attractive labels and ribbons and give with love from your kitchen.
To give as adult gifts I also made some white chocolate truffles with Cointreau and dark chocolate truffles with brandy.
Christmas Granola
Happy New Year November 22, 2011 Cured Tuna 26.11.11 Fennel cured tuna loin
When I first moved to Guildford in Surrey six years ago I was dismayed that there didn't seem to be a decent fishmonger in town. After living in Asia where people buy fish when its still swimming and prawns that are still wriggling I had become used to vibrant fish counters and tanks where farmed and wild catch shared the sales floor. In contrast I found it depressing gazing into a fish counter in a supermarket which can be really hit and miss on so many levels. Then a shop opened round the corner and this thankfully has turned out to be a proper fishmongers. The fish is as fresh as it gets inland and from sustainable sources, in addition the guys behind the counter know what they are doing . Not only are they expert at filleting whole fish, preparing squid and other seafood they are more than happy to do this for you. So when I got the urge the other day to cure a tuna loin I headed over to Chelsea Fishmonger for the centrepiece.
They only had one loin left but it looked perfect so I got a section cut off the end that weighed in at 600g. For the cure I am using a mixture of Maldon sea salt, golden brown caster sugar and crushed fennel seeds.
You can crush the fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar with the salt. It doesnt have to be really fine but you want to be sure to release the flavour of this spice.
Use the cling film to rub the cure mixture over the surface of the fish. You can discard this afterwards and let the fish sit on any extra cure. Cover with cling wrap and refrigerate. You can already see the water being drawn out below. In 12 hours there will be a pool of brine in the base of the dish. Keep turning the loin over a 3 day period at the end of which the fish will be ready to eat. If you leave a couple of days longer it will be fine.
The liquid (shown below) is the water that has been drawn out of the fish is by a process known as osmosis. This changes the texture of the fish and in the case of tuna a smooth slighly creamy mouthfeel. The salt and sugar also kill off any bacteria that may have been on the surface of the fish as the chlorine ion is toxic to bacteria. Knowing that muscle meat is sterile gives you the confidence to do this type of curing at home providing you start with really good quality fish from a reliable source. The tuna has now been curing for 4 days. The colour has darkened on the exterior which is normal. Now you remove the fish from the dish and scrape off the fennel seeds and discard them along with the liquid. Pat the fish dry with some paper towel and slice as thinly as you can using a sharp knife. I use a long knife that I originally bought for sliced smoked or cured salmon.
I had been thinking about how I would serve this and had already bought a bulb of fresh organic fennel to go with it. Then a couple of days ago I met a friend for lunch at the Petersham Nursery Restaurant in Richmond where Skye Gyngell is in charge of the kitchen (the subject of my next entry). For our starter we shared a carpaccio of smoked haddock with shaved fennel salad. The flavour of the fish was enhanced with lemon zest and a drizzle of good olive oil. The fennel has been tossed with some fresh chives and parsley. So with that in mind I garnished the finely cut tuna with freshly grated lemon zest from an unwaxed lemon. The fennel was cut really thin and tossed with freshly chopped parsley from my garden, a drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper. I would serve this as a starter or as a light lunch with bread. I loved the way this turned out and it will definately be on my menu for the Christmas period this year. Fennel seed cured tuna loin with shaved Florence fennel salad
Serve with some warm sour dough bread for a more substantial meal. Sign up for email notifications of new posts November 11, 2011 Barcelona August 2011 La Boqueria St Josep Barcelona I always have to find the local food market when I travel and part of the fun is not knowing what you will find. However sometimes you come across one that is so inspirational and exciting that I get into my "I want to live next door to this mode" and start planning. St Josep Boqueria off Las Ramblas in Barcelona is definately one of them. This market hits every button and more and for me is up there with food market in Porto in northern Portugal and some of the Asian treasures like Denspasar in Bali and Shidong in Taipei,Taiwan. Not only do you find out about local food culture but you also find really traditional food in the market restaurants of outstanding quality that cater for locals and market traders. I was so taken with this market and its location that I am planning to go back and rent an apartment close by so I can shop, cook & photograph in situ.
As you arrive at the market from the front entrance there are a lot of stalls catering for the tourist market with ready cut fruit, smoothies and sweets for sale. This is hardly surprising as this city is a mecca for tourists with all it has to offer in historic buildings, designer shops and great weather. Here are just some of the stalls in the market. Make sure you find time to go and sit at one of the bars, people watch and soak up the atmosphere, you wont be dissapointed. This sweet stall was one of many clustered together at the entrance to the market. The display is vibrant and a touch magnetic
Red and white dragon fruit look impressive and also a great idea to sell cut with a spoon for take away. In fact this practice is very common in Asian markets too
This display shows how much effort the stallholders put in to make their stalls stand out. A neccessity in this bustling market
Irresistable dragees - important in wedding celebrations to symbolise prosperity, fertility, happiness, and good luck. These were used as confetti to be thrown at weddings, its more common now for paper confetti to be used and for these to wrapped as wedding table gifts
Olives or chocolates?
Fruit pastilles
Many stalls sell these freshly made smoothies in many different fruit combinations
But to find the heart of this market you have to delve deeper. We had arrived early for breakfast so we headed to the back of the market where you always find where the stall holders and locals eat. This market did not dissapoint. As we sat down and ordered our coffee, tortilla and tomato bread a huge tray of baby calmari were thrown on the griddle for tapas. A couple next to us ordered stewed tripe and a bottle of rioja - it was 9.00am and this market adventure was hotting up. By the time we left the bottle of wine was empty and second plates of tripe had arrived......
Our breakfast didn't include tripe or wine but it was freshly cooked and the bread was seriously good
Freshly griddled baby calamari ready for the mid-morning rush
This tuna loin was glistening under the lights and intensely red
A speciality in Spain and Portugal and verstalite - texture and flavour of salted fish is so different to eating it fresh. Before refrigeration salted and drying cod was essential. I sometimes salt fresh cod before I cook it to draw the water out as it firms up the texture of the fish and makes it more interesting.
This dry cured tuna loin is a Spanish speciality and expensive too. But its served in very thin slivers as part of a tapas plate so a little goes a long way
Razor clams as fresh as this are such a wonderful sight. Served in seafood stews and in paellas, or simply "a la plancha" in non-tourist restauarants they are a treat
There were many different stalls selling cured hams and chorizo
Chilli ropes
Spanish rice - this is available in Sainsbury's Special Selection and in other good delicatessens here in the UK
This is just a hint of what this fantastic market has to offer. On the street outside there are also stalls selling flowers, seeds and fresh herbs. If you are going to Barcelona any time soon make sure you find time to fit this in. Recipe for home cured tuna coming up next. November 6, 2011 Fig & orange muffins On my weekly visit to our local market held every Friday and Saturday in Guildford I decided to buy a tray of fresh figs. This was partly because of the lack of a fig tree in the garden of our Spanish villa this summer. This is the first time we have done a rental in this part of the world that didn't include one of these luscious treats in the garden. Eating figs straight from the tree with some local jamon iberico is a real treat. The lack of them this summer inspired me to buy them and of course also because the season is coming to an end.
On arriving home it was clear that they needed to be used up quickly as they were beautifully ripe. So after having a gorgeous fig, beetroot, salad leaf and goats cheese salad on Friday night the rest had to be put to good use while they were in peak condition.
I was having some friends round for tea so I used some of the figs up in these delicious fig & orange muffins. Eaten warm the hint of orange sets off the delicate flavours of the fig perfectly. You can view the recipe below or download it here
I still had some figs left and they were destined to become part of my Christmas present collection. When I make jam I make small batches as it stress free and cooks really quickly and when I am busy with just small pockets of time its a perfect way to spend half an hour. This is a prime example of ratio cooking. However much fruit you have weigh it and then add the same amount of sugar. This is for a traditional style jam, if I want to make something less sugary I use half but you must keep it in the fridge and use it up within a month. The high sugar stuff will keep for months providing you have used clean sterilised jars. I covered the figs with some orange juice and then poured in the sugar. You just bring it to the boil and then let it cook on a rolling boil for 15 - 20 minutes until the water has cooked up and you have a syrupy fruity mixture in the pan. Heat the jars up in a baking tray with some water in the base at no more than 100 degrees C until they are way too hot to touch and remove from the oven. Fill the jars with hot jam and cover (I use clean paper towels) until they are cool then add wax circles and tightly screw on the lids).
read more... October 23, 2011 Vanilla salted caramel cheesecake Those of you who know me or have been to my cookery demonstrations will be aware that I have a bit of a thing about salt. My standard kitchen salt is Maldon plain and smoked depending on what's cooking. I also like pink salt from the Himalayas which has added nutritional value from its high iron content, black salt as it adds flavour and visual interest as a garnish. Black salt is not always readily available depending where you live but there are many different types available on mail order (http://www.sonatural.org.uk/home.asp.) the smoked varieties are a particular favourite. I was doing some food blog research a few months ago and came across vanilla salt. This I found intriguing as I always have a jar of vanilla sugar on the go but never salt, this I had to try.
Last year I went to Bali in Indonesia and bought back two kilos of their local peppery vanilla which lasts for a few years if its packed in an airtight container. This means I can be quite liberal in my vanilla useage and although it does dry out eventually it keeps for ages. In fact after 5 years some vanilla I bought on my trip before last is still strutting its stuff in my sugar jar. Now the original recipe I saw for vanilla salt used Fleur de sel and I had just added this to my collection from the fabulous St Josep food market in the Las Ramblas, Barcelona this summer. But when it came to making vanilla salt I opted in the end for Maldon thinking if it was succesful then I might commit the finer more expensive stuff too but at the price I paid for it I wanted to be sure I would use it. I made the vanilla salt up in August and started to think of how I would use it while it had a few weeks to infuse. I had already seen plenty of salted caramel recipes so was heading down that path when my issue of the Donna Hay magazine (August /September) arrived. On the cover was a cheesecake made with caramel sauce. The recipe sounded and looked wonderful and seemed to be the perfect vehicle for my now infused vanilla salt. The use of salt with sweet dishes is a flavour I absolutely love as it adds a wonderful additional layer of flavour intensity.
click here for full recipe read more... October 19, 2011 Purple majesty potato canapes with jalapeno cured salmon
Popping into Sainsbury's yesterday turned out to be a treat. On the special offers aisle I spotted some Purple majesty potatoes grown by Albert Bartlett. They are one of the few branded potatoes around and roosters their most popular variety are a firm favourite in my house.
Unusual coloured spuds are usually found in farmers markets and farm shops so I was delighted to see these little purple gems being sold in a 2 for £3 special offer.
You can use these type of bases with just about any topping - try blue cheese and red onion jam or cheddar and red chilli jam. I also did some with Jamon Iberico. You can also make up all the canapes in one session and freeze them ready cooked. read more... September 15, 2011 Late summer minestrone
The ultimate luxury of growing your own vegetables is choosing exactly when to harvest. Runner beans are at their absolute best when they are really young and tender. You will never find these babies in the shops its just not profitable to pick them this young. I have a bit of a glut going on in the runner bean department this year as they started so slowly that I planted a load more, huge error it turns out because it started raining and they went a major growth spurt. Now add to these a few baby carrots of which I have a few different varieties, a few young courgettes and some fresh herbs and you have the perfect foundation for a basil and mint infused creamy minestrone. The inspiration for this comes from a recipe for Minestrone Estivo (Summer Minestrone) in the first ever River Cafe Cook Book which I have used lovingly since it was first published in 1995. This was the year that my daughter Xenia was born so we starting eating out at home with the wonderful dishes that Rose Gray and Ruth Rodgers had gathered from their time in Italy and in particular Tuscany. Sixteen years later the book is still as fresh as it was when I picked up my copy in the Harvey Nichols Food Hall. Late Summer Minestrone Serves 4 Ingredients For the basil oil Method If you are short of time or fresh herbs use a jar of pesto instead of making basil oil.
August 2, 2011 Strawberry, raspberry and lemon curd There is nothing quite as lovely during an English summer as a jar or two of something spontaneously created from ingredients in the garden. This year I have done quite well with the raspberries and strawberries and having had some left over from dinner which needed using up but not enough for jam I needed some inspiration. Carrying out a much needed survey of my chiller draw I spotted some lemons left over from a photo-shoot so a fruit curd it was to be. The result was a smoothie pink concoction which so far has been a huge success in an Eton style mess with meringue, cream and berries and some vanilla cupcakes with a curd centre. It is also delicious with fresh bread, scones or toast or a spoonful mixed into a bowl of Greek style yogurt. I love to have a few jars of curd or chilli jelly in stock to take with a bottle of wine to a friends house for dinner or to give as table gifts from our house. I made this curd using the microwave method which I prefer to a double cooker as it means you don't have to attend the curd nervously worrying that it will cook to fast and go lumpy. You do need a large bowl and preferably a microwave proof whisk. I bought a couple of these at Lakeland a couple of years ago and they are great as you can leave them in the bowl while you the mixture cooks and you dont have a messy implement to deal with. You need to be able to access the curd in the microwave to stir it or to be able to easily lift it out to stir. This method works by cooking the mixture on high heat for 1 minute and then stirring. This takes away the potential for it going lumpy and overcooking. You can tell when the curd is ready as it starts to thicken when it comes out of the microwave and it will look set around the edges. It wont go completely thick until it has chilled overnight in a jar in the refrigerator. If you don't have a microwave by all means use the double boiler method but leave it alone at your peril.Since writing the first version of this post I saw a video on youtube of lemon curd being made in a heavy based pan which works really well but again once the heat is on you have to stay with it and stir preferably with bendy silicone style whisk.
Makes 4 -5 smallish jars and keeps up to 2 months in the refrigerator Ingredients 400g of soft fruit
1. Wash and drain the berries and de-hull. Place then in a blender with the eggs and process until smooth. Using a blender eliminates the need to strain the eggs through a fine sieve.
2. Place the butter in a large non-mettallic mixing bowl. Add the lemon rind and juice. Cook on high for 1 minute. Stir and return to the microwave for a further minute or until the butter has melted.
3. Stir the sugar into the lemon and butter mixture and cook on high for 2 minutes remove and stir. 4. Add the puree of eggs and berries to the bowl and stir thoroughly. 5. Return the bowl to the microwave and process for a minute at a time stirring at the end of each session. Repeat the 6 times or until the mixture visibly starts to set. As the mixture cools it will thicken further so don't worry if it doesn't quite look quite done. As long as the mixture starts to bubble and rise up around the edges it will have cooked the egg enough for it to set. 6. Pour the curd into clean jars and cover with a cloth and allow to go completely cold.
7. Once cold place waxed paper circles on the top of the curd and screw the lids on tight. Use within 2 months.
June 17, 2011 Rose & almond Victoria sandwich cake I had been thinking about making this cake and work and other stuff got in the way and then my Taiwanese friend Ivy came to stay. She was keen to see a real Victoria Sandwich cake being made so the timing was perfect. The crystallised rose petals I had made at the same time as the rose petal jam also needed a home so this is what we did.
Method
11. Put the top on the cake. 12. Sprinkle the with icing sugar and some crystallised rose petals.
June 2, 2011 Rose petal jam recipes
A note of caution! If you are going to make rose petal jam make sure you only use petals from roses that you know are from a pesticide free source. Roses from a supermarket or a florist are very unlikely to be organic/chemical free and they may be unsafe to eat so even though I had a few in a birthday bouquet they were not included. Just a thought here on making jam, which many people think of as being a huge overwhelming exercise of steaming kitchens, thermometers and sticky piles of washing up. It absolutely doesn’t have to be like that at all. I often just make a jar when I have left over prepared fruit from dinner or some in the fruit bowl that is past its best. A jar of freshly made jam is very simple to make and just needs a small saucepan and 1 clean jam jar. You only need to go to down the totally sterile route if you want to keep the jam for months but you might get through one jar in a week so no need. On various holiday villas we have been to in Spain with fig trees in the garden is a good example of easy jam making. I always pick a few figs and boil them up with some sugar and fresh orange juice and allow to cool. Warm croissants, fresh fig jam and coffee is one of the best ways I know to start the day. If you are going to use the jam pretty quickly you can just keep it covered in a bowl in the fridge. Rose Petal Jam
Using the method in the recipe above you can now design your own jam. Remember the ratio is equal weight of fruit and petals to sugar. You don't need much liquid as the petals break down pretty quickly a bit like cooking fresh spinach. You must as the recipe states not use the white tips that holds the flower into the flower head. Snip the petals off with a pair of scissors and then wash in a salad spinner as you may have few insects on board.
Method I also made a batch of apricot and rose jam using some orange roses that were growing over my fence from a neighbour. This I added some orange blossom water to which added an extra zing.
Coming next rose petal victoria sponge If you would like to have your name removed from this list or get a name added please email me at foodieonline@gmail.com March 17, 2010 Polenta crusted potato cakes This is the first entry to my new food blog. I'm putting it out here and if you like it let me know and I'll do another one. This is all about a left over bowl of mashed potato and a movie. I went round to a friends house to watch a film called Julie & Julia that has just been released on dvd, if you don't know anything about the movie follow the link over on the right. This foodie film surprisingly gave me a much needed motivational prod. I had been pontificating about what I should do next on this site which was overdue for an injection of enthusiasm. Blogging little excerpts from my lifetime affair with all things culinary could be just what I have been yearning for ......
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